Me at Wat Pho


I left Chiang Mai on Friday evening. We were supposed to take the bus to Bangkok at 7 PM, and then around 2:30, I was informed that we were flying at 5. After a good deal of rushing around and checking of baggage, a couple of colleagues and I made it to the plane (I later discovered that my ipod, which I’d forgotten to move into my carry-on with my other valuable stuff (computer, passport), was stolen from my checked bags… I have the worst luck with checked baggage… I will never go anywhere again without traveler’s insurance). We made it to Bangkok in the evening, but by the time the taxi inched through the traffic, it was almost 9. I stayed in a wonderful guesthouse, across the hall from my friend, Kurt, who studies forced migration with me at Columbia. He’s working in Bangkok for the summer. The weekend was a wonderful break from the confusion and occasional exasperation of being an American working at a Thai NGO. We saw most of the major sites, took all forms of public transportation (including boat taxis… where they’ve posted signs about giving monks space to sit or stand), had foot massages, went to the biggest market (in the world, apparently), and watched a cockfight (definitely the highlight of the weekend). The King’s festivities continued and Bangkok was all jazzed up with lights and signs.


The Reclining Buddha is the largest statue in Thailand... probably the biggest feet, too!




Monks have it made.

People taking photos in front of a giant photo of the king


After the fun in Bangkok, I met back up with my workfolks and we took the overnight bus to Phang-nga, where I will pretty much be staying for the duration (only a few short scheduled trips remaining). Phang-nga has been interesting. It’s been raining buckets, and consistently. Someone described it to me as “Real Thailand.” After being here for a couple of days, it makes sense. There aren’t very many people who live here. There’s one main road, two restaurants, a general store (which has nail polish remover and yogurt), and a place where they wash and dry your clothes. Life is not complicated. It’s also been described to me as isolated and boring, which I can see as well. However, I have so many books to read and so many things to think about, that I don’t think I’ll be overtaken by boredom. Also, there are some fun people next door and across the way. I think the people at the restaurant where I eat dinner (50% of the local dining establishments) feel the need to entertain me. We watch Thai soap operas. They are very moving and dramatic. I make lots of expressive noises and faces to show my surprise, disappointment, and concern for the protagonist.

I went running this morning (to the beach, which is beautiful even in the rain) and was pleased to see cows grazing among palm trees by the ocean. I must say, however, that it is strange to be putzing along and suddenly realize that you’re crossing into the area that was destroyed by the tsunami. You can actually see where the water just tore down huge areas of homes and trees. As I ran, empty pick-up trucks passed by, then later passed again, filled with day labourers. And you just imagine the number of undocumented migrants who were here during the tsunami and didn’t receive any of the support and assistance, nor help in tracing lost family members (as they were undocumented). And yet more are back, in the same spot.

I’ve been reading and editing focus group transcripts for days now. They are quite good. One really interesting part (you get a sneak preview!)- As migrants working in Thailand are talking about returning to Burma (if they’ve had the opportunity… it’s logistically tricky to go back to visit Burma and then return to Thailand), men are saying that they were received as millionaires, since they’ve made a comparatively greater amount of money working in Thailand than they could have in Burma. Women in the exact same position are received much differently. Instead of people being impressed by their wealth, they often scorn them, believing that they are sex workers in Thailand, for how else could they have earned money? Talk about a rock and a hard place.

The bug situation is out of control. There is quite the variety- size, color, shape, and texture. I like some of the neon green and orange grasshopper-type things, but even I am starting to get grossed out by the sheer number of ants, which seem to fall from the ceiling.

Angelina Jolie was on the news tonight (after the soap opera). I couldn’t tell what they were talking about, but in a variety of scenes she was patting a very sickly woman on the back, reading with some orphans, and looking very interested as an older gentleman explained some kind of corn-husking contraption to her. I’m pleased that she cares, but I’m really getting tired of her whole shtick.